Snapshots from Spain, April 2013

Barcelona Atlanta’s own Executive Chef Shane Devereux is exploring Spain with the Barcelona gang! Here are a few photos from Chef Shane’s Twitter account:

Round one (left), Squid bodies as fresh as they come (right):

Beautiful San Sebastian:

82’ Gran Reserva Monte Reale provided by Resto Rekondo at San Sebastian (left), Ameztoi Winery- Waiting to be bottled (right):

Ameztoi Winery- Also in barrels (left), Tuna! (right):

Anchovy and Tuna factory:

Dinnertime in Spain (left), Gintonics: A recurring theme in San Sebastian (right):

Morels, chanterelles, artichokes and porcinis. Nice Spread Spain! (left), morning in Spain (right):

Lunch in Rioja Alta:

For more Spain pictures, be sure to check out Chef Shane’s Twitter.

Posted in Cocktails, Drink, Food, Inman Park, Snapshots, Spain, Spain, Travel, Wine | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

How To Raise Ducks

Farah Masani is our resident forager and farmer, and she’s going to be blogging for us as the season progresses. Farah’s here to let you know what’s happening in the farming world, where Barcelona is getting their food, about new places and farms, and (of course) the Fairfield garden.

One of the latest joys I have found in back yard farming and homesteading is raising ducks. They are a delight! I grew up around ducks and still today I’m amazed at how affectionate ducks can be. They’re funny and entertaining animals with big personalities, and are beautiful to watch.

Ducks are not hard to raise and I am surprised that raising ducks has not become popular here in America. Even in Bombay, most hutments in the Portuguese settlements around where I lived had a flock of ducks wandering the alleys. It was common to see them (and it was also common to eat them). Roasted, dried, fried and even in a curry. Delicious!

When you think of raising a backyard flock, you automatically think of raising chickens. This seems to have become the suburban pastime in America, so common these days you can even order a chicken coop on Amazon.

duck in the snow

However, Europeans and Asians have been raising ducks in their backyards for centuries and for good reason. Ducks are heartier, stronger, and provide more eggs and meat per bird as compared to a chicken, making them easier and more cost effective to raise.

There aren’t a lot of duck farmers in Connecticut, but that number is on the rise. One farmer I’ve become good friends with and respect a lot is Mr. Dahil, of MarWin Farm in New Hartford CT. Mr. Dahil is a fun-loving farmer with an experimental tendency. One time he fed half his herd parsley just to see how that flavor would affect the flavor of the meat. And it did! Recently, Yale scientist and researchers visited his  farm to study the molecular aspects of duck physiology; to learn how they eat, how they find their food, what tells them good food from bad food… very interesting stuff. Marwin Farms has been around for a long time and they also have partridge, quail and guinea hogs. In fact, they have one of only 100 male guinea hogs left in the world.

Here are two of Chef Scott’s dishes in Stamford, using MarWin Farms ducks. Left is Duck Pinxtos with pickled onion, and Duck liver Bilbao style on the right:

Another person I’d like to mention is a new backyard farmer, 13-year-old Charlie Colasurdo, from Westport, CT.  He has been reading about ducks his entire life and has attended farm camp every summer for the past 7 summers. Now, he apprentices at my farm to gain practical knowledge and skills. Charlie knows all the breeds and their characteristic off the top of his head. I am actually envious of this fact. This month he will officially become a duck herder.

Farm Camp

There are duck breeds for egg laying, meat production, and, for those interested in both, there are dual-purpose breeds. Each breed has different characteristics that define it. While some may grow fast for meat or egg production, others take their time and are good mothers.

Most dual-purpose breeds are quite calm and sensible, better suited to the backyard flock than extreme egg or meat producing ducks.

Charlie’s flock will be diverse, and will consist of Khaki Campbells (known for their egg productions and superb foraging skills), Welsh Harliquins (because they are friendly and are good egg layers), and Black Swedish (known for being hearty and having excellent mothering skills).

Ducks are not high-maintenance and end up foraging a good portion of their food. They eat insects, slugs, snails, seeds, weeds, and grass. Left to forage, a duck with consume 90% of vegetable matter and greenery and 10% of protein in the form or snails, slugs etc.  This makes them great exterminators and natural pest control agents in the field or garden. This varied feeding allows for a more complex flavor of their meat and eggs.

Duck and the chickens

These birds forage a larger amount of their diets than chickens do, saving money on feed. They also eat a larger variety of it. So when times are hard and there is no money for feed, ducks are able to survive for longer periods of time just on foraging and table scraps than chickens are able to.  Ducks love to eat sand and pebbles, which helps with the grinding of food.

In your backyard, it’s important to supplement the ducks’ foraged food with non-treated, non-medicated layer pellets, which help with providing all the nourishment needed to lay eggs.

If feeding ducks fresh vegetables, it’s important to break them up into tiny pieces because ducks are not able to break up food with their bills (beaks) like chickens are able to do.

Duck and cat made friends

Ducks are social animals and need the company of others ducks, so never keep a duck alone. Also, they have a natural flock instinct that allows them to be easily herded.

Contrary to popular belief, ducks do not need a pond to swim in. However, they simply love the water. What they DO NEED plenty of drinking water. Ducks tend to alternate drinking and eating because the water helps flush down the food. It also helps clean out their nostrils. They actually blow bubbles out of their nostrils – it’s quite funny to watch.  I provide my ducks with a trough of water that they can jump into and wade and splash about in. Then, I recycle this water into the garden.

An injured duck

Ducks will make a muddy mess with their water, so if you would like to maintain your field/yard, then it’s best to place their water source on some gravel. Old bathtubs make a great splashing place for the backyard duck. You can simply attach a pipe to the drain and lead it to a flowerbed or vegetable garden. Your veggies will love this nutrient rich water.

Duck do not require extravagant housing like chickens do. They prefer to stay out day and night. However, if you have predators, you will need to lock them up at sundown. Also, they do need shelter from the wind, rain and snow. A simple shed will suffice. A deep layer of hay and wood shavings will be required for nesting. My duck coop was made from old pallets.

My duck coop

Ducks will continue to lay eggs for most of the year, giving you one egg per day. Duck lays her egg before 8:00am in the morning in the same spot. A duck egg is about 30% larger than a chicken’s egg. Also, ducks lay more consistently than chickens, laying up to 340 eggs a year. Furthermore, they will produce longer than a chicken, well into a fifth season, and long after chicken hens are ready for the stew pot.

If you’re worried about whether those eggs will taste “weird” or not work in your recipes, never fear. Ducks fed a healthy balance of layer pellets and forage will produce an egg that tastes similar to a fresh chicken egg and which provides better loft in baked goods.

Duck eggs

Unless you want to breed, it’s best not to have a drake (a male duck). Females lay better without constant mating and the eggs are stronger when they are not fertile.

Ducks mature faster than chickens do and can go from duckling to your plate in 10 weeks. They also start laying eggs earlier than hens do making them more cost productive to raise.

I hope this blog has intrigued you enough to start raising ducks in your backyard! If you have any questions, email me at fmasani@barteca.com

Posted in Food, Foraging with Farah, Local, On The Menu, Snapshots, Stamford | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Meet the Chef: Steven Brand

Get to know about the man behind the kitchen in Barcelona Brookline, Executive Chef Steven Brand.

Q: What is the first meal you remember cooking?
A: Probably scrambled eggs when I was around 7 years old.

Q: What are you passionate about besides cooking?
A: I try to conduct my life with a certain degree of passion and it crosses over into everything I do. I like to work hard, but I like to play as hard as I work.

Q: What is the best advice you ever received?
A: Probably from Yoda: “Do or do not. There is no try.”

Q: Who is your role model?
A: My dad. Also, Michel Bras who is a great chef from France.

Q: If you had a year off and could spend that time doing anything, what would you do?
A: Travel the world.

Q: Do you prefer a night out or a night in?
A: Night out, maybe to East Coast Grill in Cambridge.

Q: What is your favorite movie?
A: Tombstone or There Will Be Blood.

Q: What is your guilty pleasure?
A: I love Real Housewives of Orange County.

Q: What is your biggest pet peeve?
A: General disorder and disorganization. Or unprofessionalism.

Q: Do you prefer beer, wine or cocktails?
A: All of the above!

Q: Where is your favorite place you have traveled?
A: Glacier National Park was really amazing. I also really enjoyed Thailand and I love France. France is probably my favorite place.

Q: What is your favorite sports team?
A: The New England Patriots, my father-in-law has season tickets.

Q: What is the one thing you can’t live without?
A: My wife.

Q: What is one of your favorite memories?
A: When I was traveling in Thailand I went on a boat trip to this tiny, remote island. They dropped us off for two hours alone on this remote white sand beach. It was quiet, beautiful and perfect.

Q: If you weren’t a chef, what could you see yourself doing?
A: Maybe a teacher. Or a ski instructor or golf pro; any job that would be low pressure and relaxing.

Q: If you could have any super power what would it be?
A: Everyone wants to fly, right?

Q: What are three ingredients a chef should always have?
A: Garlic, salt and olive oil.

Q: How would you compare cooking to another job?
A: I would say it is a mix between being a chemist and being a rock star. You get to be at the center of everything using basic elements to create great dishes.

Q: What would be your perfect weekend?
A: I think a perfect weekend is spending one day doing everything possible and one day doing nothing at all.

Q: What is your favorite season?
A: Spring. It starts getting warm out and everything starts growing again. It makes it fun for cooking after using winter ingredients.

Q: Where is your favorite place to shop?
A: Kitchen Arts and Letters. It’s a store in New York City that sells only cookbooks.

Q; What do you do on a rainy day?
A: Maybe cook dinner, watch movies and relax. Or go to a bar or out with my friends. I don’t let the rain stop me from doing anything.

Q: What is your favorite meal?
A: A really good burger and fries. Eastern Standard in Boston makes a great burger. Or sushi.

Q: What is your favorite quote?
A: I had a chef that used to always yell at me in French to move my ass, so probably that.

Q: What was your most memorable moment working at Barcelona so far?
A: I was working here for about two weeks and filling in, in Stamford. None of my cooks showed up that night so I spent the night on the line with Andy Pforzheimer and Adam Halberg all night. We made it work.

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Spring is Here!

Farah Masani is our resident forager and farmer, and she’s going to be blogging for us as the season progresses. Farah’s here to let you know what’s happening in the farming world, where Barcelona is getting their food, about new places and farms, and (of course) the Fairfield garden.

It’s finally Spring. We’ve endured a harsh winter; forty inches of snow, high winds, and bitter cold – a true New England winter some would say, but Spring is finally here! These “real” winters have their benefits, although I’m sure you’d disagree. To me, the most important benefit of a harsh winter is that it prevents harmful bugs from overwintering. Overwintering is the process where bugs find a place to hibernate – in the soil, under leaves, etc. They suspend their growth until the next growing season, and when they wake up, they eat and destroy the crops. Harsh winters freeze the soil for prolonged periods of time, preventing bugs from surviving (and eating my crops!).

The greenhouse at Sport Hill Farm. Photo courtesy of Patti Popp.

However, this harsh winter has slowed down the start of spring and the outdoor growing season. By this time last year, I’d already seeded arugula, radish, peas, kale, collards, chard, spinach, and a few hardy, cold-tolerant lettuces. By the first week of April new potatoes and turnips were in the ground. Only time will tell when the soil will be warm enough to start outdoor seeding this year.

Spring is the time of the year that farmer’s greenhouses are bursting with plants. Seeding indoors in late winter is a great way to get a head start on the planting season. By the time the ground is ready and warm enough – you should have plants that are about 4- 6 weeks old.

This past winter took a toll on many farms’ greenhouses. I personally know of a few farms here in CT that had significant greenhouse damage because of the storm’s high winds and heavy snow. Patti Popp from Sport Hill Farm in Easton, CT and Haley Billip from Eddy Farm in Newington, CT both lost their greenhouses to mother nature. These are expensive structures to replace and are the “birthplace” of most farmers’ crops; losing one is a huge setback. But life must go on and it does…take a look at Patty’s greenhouse today!

The signs of Spring are creeping in. Take a look around you. There are green crocuses poking their heads through. In my case, the garlic has begun to show signs of life. Soon, fiddleheads, ramps, nettle, field garlic, chick weed, wild watercress will also be available for foraging. I especially look forward to the wild edible greenery in the early parts of the season, as they have a nice earthy flavor.

Potatoes getting ready to be planted.

Spring is the time to clean up the fields, turn over the soil, fill in ditches, fix fences, repair raised beds that are bowed out, put up trellises, and top dress the fields with healthy soil and compost mix. It’s one of the busiest times of the year for famers – but then again, a farmer’s work is never done.

Farmers aren’t the only ones busy in the Spring. All of the farm animals and wild animals are busy too. Chicks and duckling are hatching. Bunnies, lambs, and piglets all are coming into this world. This is an exciting time.

A pig family (left); a baby chick (right)

You can hatch your own chicks at home by incubating fertilized eggs in an incubator for about 21 days. Monitoring the temperature and moisture of the incubator is most important, because you’re simulating the environment of a mother hen sitting on her eggs. While it requires a lot of monitoring and precise rule following, it isn’t hard to do. I know a lot of farms that increase their flock by incubating eggs and hatching their own chicks. One year I incubated 120 chicks!

Ducklings in a brooder box.

Another way to increase your flock is by “mail order” catalog. Freshly hatched chicks can survive without food or water for up to two days because of all the nourishment they have gotten from the yolk of the egg. The actual chick comes from the white of the egg. This makes it possible to ship chicks in the mail. The U.S. Postal service has been doing this for over 100 years.

Ducklings just delivered from the post office.

Right here in CT, My Pet Chickens is the place to go to get your baby chicks. There are larger hatcheries as well, but Derek and Tracy have a great thing going and I would highly recommend them. Check out this video about them.

I just got my ducklings in the mail from McMurray Hatchery in Iowa. I got a mix for egg laying ducks and meat ducks, Kaki Campbells and Pekins respectively.

Another activity that takes place in the spring is sheep shearing. Peter and Carol of Sepe Farm in Sandy Hook, CT specialize in Connecticut-grown lamb and sheep wool. They raise their sheep on pasture in stress-free environments for meat and wool for blankets.

Farah feeding a bunny (left); A sheep giving birth (right)

Shearing the sheep in the spring keeps them comfortable in the hot summer months. It helps the sheep stay cool and dry right before birthing season, another spring activity.  Taking off the fleece right before birthing season starts assists the young lamb in nursing as well, making it easier to find the udders.

I recommend visiting a farm near you to partake in these celebrations of Spring first-hand. To get started, take a look at this CT farm map.

I wish you a happy Spring, full of life, sunshine, and fresh food.

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It’s Sugar Shacking Time

Farah Masani is our resident forager and farmer, and she’s going to be blogging for us as the season progresses. Farah’s here to let you know what’s happening in the farming world, where Barcelona is getting their food, about new places and farms, and (of course) the Fairfield garden.

As a farmer, every winter (right around the end of January) I get an itch to go outside and do some physical work and, well, be a farmer. Don’t get me wrong, I love the ability to hibernate, and I love the fact that I can rest my body and get it ready for the upcoming farming season, but I can only do so much of that. I’m used to year-round farming from back home.

I spend December and January planning the next season, sharpening tools, oiling machinery (what little I have, because I prefer to do everything by hand), repairing coops, and eating all the food I have canned and jarred. But, come the end of January, I want some farm action…and maple syrup season provides just that. A lot of fun, a lot of action, and hopefully a lot of liquid gold.

Depending on where you are in the New England area, the season can start anywhere from early to mid-February and can go all the way to late April. Usually, it starts in late February here in Fairfield County. Just like most farming, the weather dictates when the season begins. Nights have to be below freezing, preferably in the 20’s, and days have to be above 40 degrees. This contrast in temperatures causes the sap to flow.

I owe all my knowledge and skill to Pam and Doug Cummings of Sharon, VT. They taught me all that I know and to this day we share the magic of the sugar shack.

The sugar shack (with old tools)

But there is one other person that I want to introduce to you, my friend, Dottie Carpenter. She shares the passion of sugar season as much as I do.

Dottie Carpenter and her family own and run Doc’s Maple Syrup. Located in New York State, Doc’s produces some of the finest maple syrup I have ever tasted (it’s better than mine)! Dottie is one of the most passionate people I have ever met on the process of making maple syrup.

Doc's Maple Syrup

Together with her son, Jim (an investment banker at a boutique firm in Manhattan), daughter-in law Aura (a chef), and daughter Carla (a designer), Dottie manages and runs Doc’s Maple Syrup.

The 1600 acres of farmland has been in their family for seven generations. Originally, years ago, the land was used as a dairy farm. However, about three years ago Dottie and her family wanted to do more with it since it was not being used for dairy anymore.

Dottie handing out maple cotton candy

They called in Cornell Agriculture Experts for a recommendation and it was determined that the land had about 60,000 sugar maple trees. Because the family had never used fertilizers, pesticides etc. it was easy for them to be classified as “organic.” This is a hard process for maple syrup producers and Dottie is very proud to have passed the test.

The pails that collect sap

It all starts by “tapping” the tree, which means putting a spigot in the trunk of a sugar maple tree. It’s from this spigot that the sap drains into buckets or pipes. Doc’s uses pipes and gravity to transport the sap to the sugar shack where it is boiled down into maple syrup.

The buckets holding the sap

I prefer using buckets because I enjoy emptying them, seeing how much sap each tree has given me, how much I have collected from all the trees, and I enjoy schlepping buckets of sugar water to the sugar shack to boil down. But, I also don’t have 5000 plus trees tapped on my land.

Doug consolidating the sap in Vermont

Trees that are larger than 10-18 inches in diameter are best to tap. The larger the tree, the more “taps” you can have in it. Also, it’s important to tap the tree on the sunny side of the bark because this is the side that will thaw out first thing in the morning, making the sap run faster. It takes about 40 gallons of sugar water to make just one gallon of syrup. The sap has to be boiled at a high heat to evaporate all the water. It has to reach a temperature of 219 degrees, and then it’s officially maple syrup.

Testing the temperature

You can do this at home, in small quantities. I highly recommend you do it outside because sticky moisture will settle on your walls, and you’ll be wiping them down all throughout the summer.

It gets very steamy around the evaporator

Back to the process: It’s preferable to have an evaporator, which is a rectangular pan that has a large surface area. It helps with the faster evaporation of the sap when heated. I like using really dried wood to heat my sap.

The dried firewood

During the 2 – 3 week sugar shacking season, I go from tree to tree every night and transfer the sap from the buckets hanging off the tree to my holding tank. Then, from the holding tank, I siphon it and start boiling down the sap right away in the sugar shack.

The sugar shack is where the magic happens. Not only is it where this liquid gold is made, it’s where friends and family sit around for hours feeding the fire, stirring the sap, talking, sharing and exchanging stories. Oftentimes we’ve stayed out all night boiling down the sap, because once you start you can’t stop. Sap is like milk, it turns sour and curdles if not processed immediately.

Maple syrup!

Once the sugar level gets concentrated, the syrup moves to the front of the pan and it can be drawn down and filtered. All maple syrup has the same sugar content, but different flavors and color.

Vermont maple syrup jugs from past years

The color of the syrup determines the grade. Grade A (light, medium, dark) and Grade B. The really, really light maple syrup that comes from sap early on in the season is usually called “fancy” syrup. Personally, I prefer the darker Grade B. My favorite way to enjoy maple syrup is to have it in my morning coffee, instead of sugar.

The different grades of maple syrup

If you haven’t been to a sugar shack, I highly recommend a visit to one near you. Kevan Meehan and Jonathan Kirschner at Ambler Farm in Wilton, CT have a pretty swell operation.  I also get my maple syrup fix by drinking a Bourbon Spice Rack, a drink that Gretchen crafted specially using Doc’s Maple syrup.

Bourbon Spice Rack

In year one, Dottie and her family, tapped 4000 trees and got 1800 gallons. Year two was a bad year and they got only 1400 gallons out of 5000 taps. This year, thus far, Dottie has gotten 900 gallons from 6000 taps and the season is not even half way completed. Fingers crossed!

You’ll run into Dottie at the Westport Farmers Market and find the syrup at Double L Market. Dottie and Aura also came to Barcelona Fairfield and shared yummy maple ice slushies and maple cotton candy last summer.

If you’re adventurous, take a trip up to the Carpenter family farm to check out their maple syrup operations.

Posted in Food, Foraging with Farah, Local, On The Menu, Snapshots | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment